Why I’ve been going back to the same UK seaside town for 17 years

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An aerial view of an empty Aldeburgh beach in Sussex, with colourful houses lining the seafront, a sandy strip, and the sea. The sky above is bright blue, with a few clouds in it.
It’s often hailed as one of the UK’s best coastal towns (Picture: Nick Beer/Getty Images)

I love the beach. It’s my happy place. And there’s one spot that’s become my go-to when I need to escape London and be by the sea.

Aldeburgh in Suffolk regularly tops lists of the UK’s best seaside towns, and it truly deserves its flowers. 

It’s small, with an estimated population of just 2,348, and just a handful of shops on the high street. But it’s got everything you could need for a charming coastal getaway. 

I would know; I’ve been going there at least once a year for almost two decades.

The first time I went to Aldeburgh was on the eve of my 15th birthday. 

I’m now 32, and honestly, it hasn’t changed all that much in the last 17 years. That’s a good thing. 

Courtney Pochin enjoying a drink at The Suffolk's rooftop terrace in Aldeburgh
Aldeburgh reels you in, hook, line and sinker, writes Courtney Pochin (Picture: Courtney Pochin)

I love seeing the same businesses thriving each time I visit, from the Aldeburgh Cinema to The Golden Galleon fish & chip shop.

There’s a gorgeous independent bookshop (with tote bags to rival Daunt’s), several charity shops, a couple of art galleries, an excellent deli and, of course, an ice cream parlour.

The food scene is exceptional. The Suffolk’s seafood restaurant has been featured in the Michelin Guide, the Thai Street Kitchen takeaway slots fill up faster than you can say Pad Thai on a Friday night, and Sea Spice is serving up dishes on par with some of London’s finest curry houses.

The star of the show, though, is the beach itself.

Coloured houses and buildings by the beach in Aldeburgh
The town is full of charming, colourful buildings (Picture: David Calvert/Shutterstock)

It’s a pebble beach, which means you’ll probably want to keep your shoes on instead of going barefoot, but otherwise, it’s pretty perfect.

Colourful houses line the seafront in pastel shades of pink, yellow, and blue, wooden fishing boats sit on the shingle, and the North Sea sparkles gloriously in the sunshine. 

If you get up before 9am, you’ll catch locals heading down for a dip, wearing dressing gowns and water shoes. Some swim in the bracing water, others merely float for a few minutes to wake themselves up.

Whenever I’m in town, I like to set an early alarm and take a cup of tea down to the sea.

First thing in the morning, the beach is gloriously empty, save for a few swimmers, so you feel you have the entire place to yourself.

Covered in shingle and wildflowers, the beach is a great place to relax (Picture: TravellingLight/Getty Images)

There are plenty of walking trails, too, including a two-mile stretch of coast you can follow to the village of Thorpeness.

This will take you past the Scallop, a massive shell-shaped sculpture made from steel, that serves as a memorial to the composer, Sir Benjamin Britten, who lived in The Red House in Aldeburgh.

Walk in the opposite direction and you’ll find Slaughden, a hamlet just south of the town centre. It’s marshland, home to England’s largest Martello Tower, and Slaughden Sailing Club.

There’s a footpath you can take through the salt marshes, with the estuary waters of the River Alde on one side, and fields full of cows on the other. 

The area is home to several nature reserves, including Snape Marshes and RSPB Minsmere, if you want to venture further. 

A walk along the marshland near Aldeburgh
The area is also home to pretty marshland trails (Picture: Courtney Pochin)

I can’t say I ever do any strenuous hikes when I visit, though. Aldeburgh is for relaxing, and it’s truly a glorious place to kick back.

I breathe in the sea air, eat more than my share of great food, enjoy a drink at the pub or a bottle of wine from the Adnams store, and I read. 

A long weekend is an ideal amount of time, but you might find yourself wanting to stay longer. Aldeburgh has a way of reeling you in.

The town has captured my heart, hook, line, and sinker, and I’m already counting the days until I return.

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