The hype about South Africa turned me off. Then I went there myself

A first time visit to South Africa dispelled preconceptions for our writer (Picture: Robertson Buckhaven)

South Africa, it turns out, is the Taylor Swift of countries. It transforms people into hardcore, chanting superfans. Have you noticed?

I’ve witnessed many rational people losing the plot over Cape Town.

Their eyes glaze over, they mutter about Table Mountain, its cable car, to-die-for views, killer beaches, legendary surfing and the sacrosanct ritual of the braai (traditional barbecue).

Frankly, that level of unbridled hype doesn’t just turn me off. It unplugs me from the wall socket.

In fact, I was prepared to shove the working end of a springbok into the gob of the next person who brought up the penguins of Boulder’s Beach.

Yet, when an invitation to South Africa landed in my inbox, I promptly accepted. How’s that for logic?

Was I planning to go on a cynical rage-safari, just to come home and sniffily report that I hadn’t seen so much as a field mouse?

Whatever my motivation, it was hands down the best decision I could have made.

Haut-Safari

The trip was organised by Sabi Sabi. I wasn’t familiar with them, largely because they operate at the high-end of the travel market, and I do not.

For the uninitiated, they are a family-owned private game reserve that have set the standard for ‘bush chic’ since 1979.

They provide a five-star, VIP ticket to seeing the Big Five, up-close and personal.

If, like me, you thought The Big Five was a South African boy band, you’d be wrong. It’s lions, elephants, rhino, leopard and buffalo.

There was even talk of cheetah, for the Big Six.

Wondrous stuff (Picture: Sabi-Sabi)

Sabi Sabi boasts a sleek and beautifully curated property portfolio.

Until recently, they were strictly a ‘boots and binoculars’ operation. But last year, they expanded, purchasing a property in Cape Town and transforming it into The Camissa House, a newly-restored, 1920’s Cape Dutch manor nestled in a leafy, affluent suburb of Constantia.

Think polished floorboards, delightful staff and a glass of crisp Cap Classique sparkling wine welded to your hand.

Better yet, it sits on the doorstep of the historic Klein Constantia winery, which I visited that evening. Their world-famous dessert wine is divine, and wasn’t going to drink itself.

The next day was a whirlwind of the classic hits: Table Mountain, the breathtaking botanical gardens and yes, those penguins of Boulder Beach. We actually had a picnic on the sand while the little fellows sunned themselves on adjoining rocks.

Well worth doing, if not just for bragging rights.

The classic hits (Picture: Robertson Buckhaven)

The next morning, I flew to Johannesburg and was collected by Sabi-Sabi’s open top Toyota Land Cruiser.

Our Head Ranger, Jamil, did the honours, driving us through the sweeping reserve, where we spotted antelope and buffalo aplenty before we’d even unpacked.

I spent the rest of my stay at Earth Lodge, built like an underground Bond-Villain lair, all earth-toned and open plan.

I physically gasped when I saw my suite; sculpted into the slope, overlooking a private plunge-pool that’s essentially open access to passing wildlife.

You might well wake up to an elephant or waterbuck drinking sedately from your pool. I know I did.

Heaven on earth at Earth Lodge (Picture: Sabi-Sabi)

Off-track and into the wild

As a certified safari novice, the daily and nightly game drives were some of the most exhilarating things I’ve ever experienced.

Sabi Sabi is located in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, which famously shares an unfenced border with the Kruger National Park.

But while visitors to Kruger are strictly confined to the tarmac, a private reserve means you can veer wildly off-track to where the real drama unfolds.

Turns out the Big Five is not a South African boyband (Picture: Sabi-Sabi)

Guided, of course, by Jamil, who carries rifles and regularly hopped out to read the ancient hieroglyphics of animal tracks in the dirt, which we then pursued like thirsty blood hounds.

Watching a young leopard stealthily stalking a warthog is an image that will live rent-free in my head forever.

There’s an intoxicating rawness to it all.

Parking up mid-safari to be handed a coffee heavily dosed with Amarula cream liqueur, while standing on the actual ground amongst free-roaming wildlife, beautifully reminds you of just how small we really are.

Up close and personal (Picture: Sabi-Sabi)

My most cherished memories? Sitting in an open-topped jeep a whisker away from three dozing male lions, who were stretched out precisely like my Golden Retriever after a long walk.

And later, strolling back to my room in the evening with the Head Ranger, only to be greeted by a family of colossal-looking hippos, including the baby.

Sabi Sabi delivered an unforgettable, seamless experience. Every detail was thought of, including a treasure-trove of a wine cellar that kept this particular lush incredibly happy, alongside some truly exceptional dining.

It’s safety-first, naturally, but they crucially maintain the magic, the pulse and the sheer adrenaline of feeling like you’ve stepped directly into a David Attenborough documentary.

Sign me up for the fan club. I’m officially a Swiftie for South Africa.

Robertson was a guest of Sabi-Sabi, but don’t expect us to sugarcoat anything — our reviews are 100% independent.

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