People say it’s a ‘doughnut’, but my underdog city has something for everyone

Bolton was decimated by the slow death of the high street (Picture: Getty Images)

In the latest instalment of Metro Travel Hot Takes, Alexander O’Loughlin argues that his hometown has a bad reputation it doesn’t deserve.

When it comes to a UK staycation, people get misty-eyed over cottages in the Cotswolds, beaches in Cornwall, or the drama of a Scottish road trip.

No one, hardly ever, talks about Bolton.

Since moving to London, I’ve fallen into the classic Northerner trap of saying I’m from Manchester for ease of conversation.

But the truth is, I’m from the low-key iconic town in the foothills of the Northwest Pennines: home of Peter Kay, Greenhalgh’s pastie barms, and some of the most surprisingly beautiful countryside in England.

Once a thriving market town that stood shoulder-to-shoulder with the north-west’s industrial powerhouses, the slow death of the high street hit Bolton hard. It suffered a rapid decline in the 2010s, as shops shut their doors and big brand names got out of dodge.

Locals have described it as ‘a doughnut’ — the centre’s gone out of it.

No one, hardly ever, raves about Bolton (Picture: Getty Images)

Growing up, I never appreciated the former mining town I call home. But these days, my return every two or three months is something I crave. There is beauty, if you know where to look.

Here’s my unsolicited pitch for why everyone needs to stop sleeping on Bolton.

Cheap pints that put London to shame

Yes, it’s a cliché. But the difference is stark.

In Bolton, you can still get a proper pint without feeling like you’ve remortgaged your house. And it’s not just the price — it’s the atmosphere.

From the village charm of the Thomas Egerton pub to the Real Housewives of Cheshire vibes of Fanny’s, there’s always someone who will say hello to you when you come in, a variation of a balding older man sat on the corner stool to talk about nothing and everything with and a warmth that allows you to drop the guards that builds when we’re caught up in the city.

Stunning countryside on your doorstep

The thing about Bolton is, you don’t have to drive for hours to find the kind of landscapes that would make a National Trust brochure jealous.

Rivington Pike offers panoramic views that rival the Lakes (minus the hordes of tourists).

Smithills Hall is steeped in history, beginning as a 14th-century medieval building constructed by William de Radcliffe, surrounded by acres of green space.

And if you’re into moody, Brontë-esque walks, Winter Hill has you covered.

The countryside around Bolton is idyllic (Picture: Alexander O’Loughlin)

Oh, and best of all is Entwilstle reservoir, which is absolutely divine (and has a gorgeous pub called the Strawberry Duck up at the top).

If you’re into dramatic drives with the window down, cold, dewy air on your face and The Smiths on the radio, all of the above locations provide the perfect backdrop. 

Surprisingly iconic filming locations

Believe it or not, Bolton pops up on screen a lot more than you’d think.

The town has doubled for Manchester, London, and even 19th-century Paris in various productions.

Peaky Blinders, Happy Valley, and It’s a Sin have all filmed here. Le Mans Crescent, where much of the filming occurs, is a remarkable piece of British architecture, and was in fact in part developed by my great-granduncle, who was a mason during its creation in the 1930s.

Moreover, it’s not just about what comes to Bolton; we have culture seeping out of the cobbled streets with our theatres and museums, such as the Octagon theatre where none other than Vanessa Kirby made her stage debut (alongside me).

And, while we’re at it, other notable Bolton names include Fred Dibnah, Sir Ian McKellen, Samuel Crompton, Jason Kenny and Amir Khan.

A food scene that’s pure comfort

For me, Bolton’s food highlights happen in my Gran’s kitchen, where the perfect cottage pie and peas are followed by a cup of tea and more often than not, a homemade Bakewell tart.

This is exactly what it’s about up here, Bolton’s culinary highlights are about proper portions and proper flavour.

Whether it’s pub grub, a friendly cafe or a top-tier restaurant, Bolton has you covered.

Greenhalgh’s bakery is basically an institution (their pastie barm is a rite of passage). The Curry Mile in nearby Rusholme might hog the headlines, but Bolton has its fair share of brilliant Indian restaurants too, such as The Pavillion where I spent many a childhood night with my friends. 

Easy access to Manchester (without the price tag)

I know I’m vouching aggressively for Bolton here, but one of its greatest perks is that it’s just a 20-minute train ride into Manchester.

It’s the perfect base for a weekend where you get the best of both worlds: the culture, nightlife and shopping of a major city, plus the laid-back pace and affordability of a market town. 

Bolton is a good base to explore other parts of the north (Picture: Alexander O’Loughlin)

The verdict

Bolton might not be topping the Time Out ‘coolest neighbourhoods’ list anytime soon, but that’s part of the charm.

It’s unpretentious, friendly, and far more scenic than most people realise.

It’s surprisingly cosmopolitan and has a wonderfully diverse community, but don’t just take it from me.

My Gran – the one with the incomparable cottage pie – says: ‘Contrary to popular belief, Bolton is not all old cotton mills and coal mines, we’re surrounded by beautiful hills and dales.

‘Bolton has got a little bit of something for everyone.’

So, next time you’re planning a Northern getaway, give the underdog a chance. Bolton deserves its moment.

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