2 hours ago
5 
From the back seat of the taxi, I watch as the speedometer hovers over the 120mph mark. I’ve just arrived in Tunisia, and instinctively, I reach for the seatbelt, only to find it’s missing in action.
I turn to the window to find some zen, and as we hurtle towards the town of Sidi Bou Said, the beautiful Lake Tunis stretches out on both sides, a natural lagoon in the outskirts of the capital.
For many Brits, Tunisia is synonymous with all-inclusive beach resorts on the Mediterranean. Yet, this is just a fraction of the story.
As I quickly discover, this is a country layered with history and culture, and it’s ripe for travelers who want to experience an adventure beyond the fight for the hotel sun loungers.
Tunisia’s seaside suburbs of Sidi Bou Said, La Marsa and Gammarth
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I flew direct to Tunis, the capital of Tunisia, with Nouvelair, a journey that takes about three hours from London Gatwick.
I meet up with with my friend and French-Tunisian jouranlist, Hedi Mehrez, who is determined to show me the very best his country has to offer.
Our first stop is the town of Sidi Bou Said. Perched high above the Mediterranean, just 30 minutes from central Tunis, it feels like it belongs in a postcard.
Whitewashed buildings shimmer in the 25°C sun, their bright blue shutters mimicking the colours of the sea.
It is those characteristics that often bring comparisons to the Greek island of Santorini. Sidi Bou Said has a similar dreamlike feel – though without the invasive crowds and a distinct North African soul.
Hedi tells me that the town is a ‘true source of pride’ for Tunisians, adding: ‘It is always one of the first places I take my foreign friends, as it beautifully showcases the rich culture Tunisia has to offer. I am truly attached to Sidi Bou Said – I often go simply to take in the breathtaking views.’
Before taking on the cobbled streets, we stop for sustenance. The Tunisian Assida Zgougou, a delicious custard-type dessert made out of Aleppo pine powder and topped with crushed pistachios, does the job.
We also grab a refreshing cold brew from the trendy branch of Ben Rahim Coffee.
The stroll through Sidi Bou Said reveals something charming at every turn – tiny shops spilling over with hand-crafted ceramics and jewellery.
Nomad is one of several art galleries worth checking out, showcasing traditional and also more modern pieces that honour Tunisia’s rich history.
As we descend the main hill, a crowd has gathered at a lookout point at the end of the path. From here, the view is nothing short of cinematic – the sun bouncing off the golden sands below and the waves of the sea crashing in the shoreline.
Another taxi ride – a much shorter and calmer one – takes us to La Marsa, a larger coastal town next to Sidi Bou Said. This is where one of my favourite artists, Palestinian singer Saint Levant, posted a video from yesterday, so I secretly hope to bump into him.
Walking up and down the sandy beach, surrounded by topless men playing volleyball and practicing gymnastics, there is no trace of the musician. Oh, well – next time.
Instead, I spend ages watching an elderly couple feeding the packs of stray dogs and cats, tossing slabs of salami at them. Couple goals in 50 years.
Beyond Tunisia's Mediterranean coastline
Beyond Tunisia’s beaches there so many place to explore – from the towering Roman amphitheatre of El Jem to the Great Mosque of Kairouan.
Both are situated about 2 hours and 30 minutes from Tunis, but if you have a couple of days to spare, the trips are well worth it.
The town of El Jem is home to the famous amphitheatre, where parts of the Oscar-winning film Gladiator were filmed. Only the Colosseum in Rome and the ruined theatre of Capua are larger.
The Great Mosque in the ancient city of Kairouan and is the oldest Muslim place of worship in Africa. It’s commonly regarded as the fourth holiest site in Islam.
The seafront at La Marsa is where Tunisians come to unwind – teenagers are skating along the palm-lined promenade, families with children playing in the sand and friends sipping on cocktails at rooftop bars. The vibe here is effortlessly stylish and cool – but also warm and welcoming.
Considering the lack of so-called third spaces in London, it is both inspiring and humbling to see that community lies at the heart of daily life in Tunisia.
Whether it is feeding animals at the beech, sharing food with neighbours or simply gathering at the local café for late-night conversation over a sizzling shisha.
Dinner is at one of the many upscale restaurants that surround the beach at La Marsa. Before we know it the sun has set and it is time for the next adventure at nearby Gammarth.
Once a small fishing village, it blossomed into a resort following Tunisia’s hard-fought independence from French colonial rule in 1956.
Now it is a vibrant nighttime hub, famous for its nightclubs, as well as five-star hotels and sprawling beaches.
The taxi speeds past several clubs pumping loud music – Foll’Amour, Zebra, Molo and eventually Gingembre, a very liberal open-concept venue playing Latin trap and Arab tunes from the 2000s.
I dance the night away, sipping on a supreme Tunisian lager called Celtia.
Tunisia is for the adventurous type
Tunisia may not be the easiest destination for first-time travellers, but it is certainly one of the most rewarding. Public transport can be confusing to navigate, so if you don’t drive, taxis quickly become your best friend.
Expect to be hustled here – it is an art form. A drive from the centre of the capital to Sidi Bou Said, for example, costs 20 TND or £5.
But sometimes, taxi drivers will ‘forget’ to turn on the metre or charge a flat fee, which can often be double or even triple.
Considering that the average monthly salary in the country is £400 – and an Uber ride in London for a similar distance could cost up to £50 – it is a tiny price to pay to be welcomed here.
It’s worth arriving with an open mind and a flexible attitude. Infrastructure is not always super tourist-friendly, but people are helpful and warm. A few words of French – or even better, Tunisian Arabic – go a long way.
Uber does not operate in Tunisia, and while Bolt was once an alternative – though much pricier than hailing a taxi – its services were suspended last month following money laundering allegations. My flight to Tunis arrived just past midnight, so I pre-booked a taxi from the airport through Booking.com, where I also booked my hotels, which can fill up fast.
Flights from London to Tunis Carthage Airport start at around £76 one way with Nouvelair (flying in January). There are six direct trips from Gatwick Airport every week .Gergana Krasteva was a guest of Booking.com
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