I swapped my sun holiday for a train trip to Europe’s rainiest city — with highs of 8°C

Norway is home to over 1,000 fjords (Picture: Ellie Hutchings)

In true British fashion, I’d always turned my nose up at the idea of a holiday that didn’t involve heat.

The UK summer is unreliable at best, and if it wasn’t sun, sea and sangria, really, I didn’t want to know.

But my eyes were opened by Bergen, Norway’s gateway to the fjords, a colourful city nestled between seven mountains and the dazzling western coastline.

The Scandinavian jewel may be small, but it punches above its weight with an abundance of natural beauty, fascinating history and a surprisingly eclectic food scene.

After spending four days there, this is my honest review of everything Bergen has to offer. (Spoiler: it gets five stars.)

A train ride to the fjords

Bergen is easily accessible from the UK, with direct 90-minute flights from Manchester and London’s Gatwick and Heathrow airports.

The city is known as ‘the gateway to the fjords’ for its location between the two largest fjords in the country — the Sognefjord and the Hardangerfjord.

Bergen is perched on Norway’s dazzling western coastline (Picture: Metro)

Norway is renowned for these deep, water-filled valleys, carved by glaciers. The Scandinavian nation has over 1,000 of these scenic bad boys, more than any other country in the world.

I travelled to the Sognefjord via the Flåm Railway. Widely regarded as one of Europe’s most beautiful train journeys, it passes snow-covered rock faces, cascading waterfalls and tiny mountain farms before winding its way down to the fjord’s shore.

Before setting off, I checked the forecast only for my heart to sink when I saw highs of 8°C in Flåm, where I would be boarding a boat across two of the Sognefjord’s branches.

Aurlandsfjord is one of the Sognefjord’s branches, part of Norway’s largest fjord (Picture: Ellie Hutchings)

But once on deck, insulated by a turtleneck, a fleece, a sweater and a puffer coat, I soon forgot about the wind biting at my nose and fingers.

The electric boat slid silently through the narrow passages, flanked by towering cliffs and lush green forest. I craned my neck to marvel at the unspoiled landscape and, busy taking it all in, I could barely feel the cold.

Balancing tourism and nature

Western Norway is having its moment, but international interest brings the challenges of mass tourism.

Stein Ove Rolland, CEO of Fjord Norway, tells me that tours to this part of the world have become more popular in recent years, as experienced travellers seek something different to Europe’s better-known destinations.

Experts believe the rise is linked to the growing number of travellers looking to explore colder climates. Known as coolcations, Google searches for ‘cooler holidays’ soared by 300% between 2023 and 2024, and interest shows no sign of waning.

Bergen, where temperatures rarely rise above 20°C even at the height of summer, definitely qualifies for this category.

Most tourists arrive between June and August, but there were already plenty of visitors during my trip in April.

The train journey was comfortably busy, but the boat was nearly full, and the local bus at the other end of the fjord struggled to accommodate the influx of passengers.

The Flåm Railway starts at Myrdal, 866 metres above sea level (Picture: Ellie Hutchings)

Norway seems nervous about accepting higher numbers of visitors. A tourism campaign was shelved last year over fears of the environmental impact, while local authorities could soon be allowed to charge tourist tax.

In Bergen, the daily number of cruise ship passengers has been capped at 8,000.

Stein tells me that while tourism has long been an integral part of the area, balancing the needs of guests and local residents can be difficult. He says the region is doing everything it can to protect the natural environment.

One way they are doing this, he says, is encouraging tourists to visit in the colder months.

‘We no longer market the summer season specifically, but highlight how unique it is to experience Bergen and the surrounding areas in spring, autumn, and winter,’ he explains.

‘In these seasons, there is more space, the nature is just as spectacular, and the food reflects the different times of year.’

The small village of Flåm is visited by hundreds of thousands of tourists each year (Picture: Getty Images)

Europe’s rainiest city

Bergen is officially Europe’s rainiest city, averaging more than 200 rainy days per year, thanks to the surrounding mountains which trap moisture coming in from the North Sea.

But, thanks to the climate, it’s perfect for nature lovers.

Ulriken, the tallest of Bergen’s mountains at 643 metres, can be hiked in one to two hours. A cable car offers a stunning view of the windblown ridges and inhospitable North Sea that surround the city.

Mount Fløyen, meanwhile, boasts dense forest and winding trails within minutes of the city centre, with a funicular that goes right to the summit.

Mount Fløyen offers panoramic views of the city (Picture: Getty Images/iStockphoto)

I was lucky with the weather, as locals often reminded me; it stayed dry for two of the three days I spent in Bergen.

When the rain finally came, on my last day in the city, it poured. But despite my aversion to damp climes, I found Bergen striking in the deluge.

The city’s vibrant colours — rust-red roofs and emerald forest — held their own amid the silvery sheen of rain, and the downpour created a hushed atmosphere that was strangely comforting.

Historic charm

As the rain moved in, I explored the narrow streets of Bryggen, a UNESCO World Heritage site in the centre of Bergen, dating back to the 12th-century.

The area was once central to the German Hanseatic League’s trading empire because of stockfish, Norway’s traditional (and highly divisive) dried cod.

Today, Bryggen’s medieval legacy is preserved by the characteristic wooden buildings, restored with traditional methods, their colourful facades housing artisan shops, restaurants, and artist studios.

The district is home to the oldest restaurant in Bergen, Bryggen Tracteusted. The building has served many purposes, including as a courthouse and a school, since the 1700s.

Now, it serves local dishes including fish soup with delicate dumplings, juicy beetroot tartare and, of course, stockfish with seasonal trimmings.

Bryggen’s wooden houses are centuries old (Picture: Getty Images)

Sloping heavily towards the harbour because of its age, Bryggen Tracteusted exudes old-world charm. Wood panelled walls, stone floors, candlelit rooms and fur throws draped on the back of chairs create a cosy retreat from the rain-slicked streets.

The four-course tasting menu, priced at 825 NKO (roughly £60), is as generous as it is delicious. The manager joked that the building tilts not from age, but so guests can roll home full and happy.

Back in my hotel room, warmed and full from creamy artichoke soup, white wine steamed cabbage and nutty rye bread, I scrolled through social media posts of a sunshine-filled weekend back home.

I didn’t feel an ounce of jealousy.

Bergen, with its historic charm, natural beauty and cosy atmosphere, had warmed my spirit — even if it hadn’t quite done the same for my body.

Ellie Hutchings was a guest of Jet2 and Visit Bergen.

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